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1 Double Ends
Two ends drawn through the same dent in the reed and same eye in the heald and weaving as one. Double ends and double picks are common in many matting cloths. Double ends often appear in a cloth where not intended, and this is a weaving fault, and known as "taped ends." -
2 Double Damask
This is not a double cloth. It is a linen fabric with one set of warp threads and one set of weft threads. The Belfast Textile Testing House gives the opinion that " the term Double Damask is only applicable to goods counting not less than 170 threads per square inch when bleached, and woven on the 8-thread or finer satin twill principle in which the weft considerably exceeds the warp in closeness." The proportion is about two warp to three weft threads Double damasks commence with about 80 ends and 90 picks per inch, from 50's/70's lea yarns. In actual trade they often have 80 ends and 120 picks per inch, and increase in multiples of five threads per inch to about 110 ends and 170 picks. An exceedingly fine linen damask contains 120 ends and 188 picks per inch, equal to 314 threads per square inch. -
3 Double Plains
A combination of two plain cloths woven together. The cloths are bound together by changing places. For convenience one cloth may be called the face and the other the back cloth, but both cloths appear both on the back and the face of the double texture. Where the cloths change places are the only binding points, and the interchange of the two cloths forms the pattern. Double plains were formerly much used for vestings and suitings in both cotton and wool. Other constructions include fancy dress materials, and the illustration shows a double plain in which a yellow cloth interchanges with a blue cloth. Both cloths have 30's warp and weft, but the yellow has 88 ends and 88 picks per inch, while the blue has only 44 ends and 44 picks. The reverse side of the fabric is exactly opposite to that illustrated.
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4 Double Leviathan Stitch
An embroidery stitch, consisting of a large cross stitch with long cross stitches filling the holes on each side and also an upright cross stitch over the whole. Another style of double plain used for dress materials has 60 ends and 56 picks per inch, namely, 30 ends and 28 picks per inch in each cloth, but one warp is 62's hard spun Egyptian and the other 2/20's mercerised. The weft for both is 64's. In this make the designs are often simple squares and the like such as can be woven on a dobby loom.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Leviathan Stitch
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5 Double Warps
A term used by home trade buyers for a plain cloth made from twofold warp and single weft, good quality yarns. The cloth is used for pillow cases, underwear, etc. Widths 341/2-in. to 36-in., 60 ends X 60 picks per inch, or 44 ends, one in a dent, and 72 picks; yarns 2/36's twist, 16's to 20's weft. The finished cloth is bleached and soft finished. All " double warps " are super qualities, giving strength and wear. The term does not mean two warps are used but simply a single warp of two-fold yarn. -
6 Double Warp Flannelettes
An all-cotton fabric for use as pyjamas, shirts, etc. Woven in all widths and qualities. The warp is often woven two ends as one. Flannelettes are woven in coloured stripes in great variety, generally from " fast to washing " colours. One quality is made 35-in. wide, 80 ends and 5 picks per inch, 32's T., 16's W., 25 per cent of the warp is coloured.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Warp Flannelettes
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7 Double Scale Harness
This is a harness in which the couplings are attached to the neck cords in pairs. These couplings are provided with mails and the couplings are knotted about 8-in. or 9-in. above the mails. Thin, flat metal staves are inserted through each row of couplings in the knotted loops, and the staves are operated by separate hooks at the sides of the machine. By this means, a pattern of twice the width can be woven. Thus a pattern on 800 ends can be woven by a 400's machine. The cards are cut only for figure, the ground being operated by side hooks and staves.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Double Scale Harness
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8 Velours Double
VELOURS SIMPLE, VELOURS DOUBLEObsolete French warp pile fabric. The pile was formed by two sets of warp, one with single, the other with two-fold ends, the weft was a different colour. Where the pile was of single yarn the different colour weft was visible producing a changeable effect, while the weft was invisible where the pile was of the two-fold yarn. -
9 Duck
A heavy cotton cloth used for purposes where great strength is required, such as for sails, boot linings, tent cloths, etc. The original duck was a linen cloth, made from double warp and weft of coarse counts, but nearly all ducks are now made from cotton yarns. Usually woven with double ends and double picks. A light duck is made. This is bleached and used for men's suitings in tropical countries. Ducks are usually named by the weight in ounces per yard - thus a 10-oz. duck cloth weighs 10-oz. per yard. For sailcloths the weave is plain and single-ends, viz., 24-in., 50 ends and 50 picks per inch, 3/30's T., 2/20's W. American makers number the sailcloth duck as follows: - Standard 22-in. No. 1 weighs 18-oz. per running yard. No. 2 weighs 17-oz. per running yard. No. 3 weighs 16-oz. per running yard. For cloths heavier than 18-oz. a cipher is added for each ounce increase, thus: 19-oz. = No. 1/0; 20-oz. = no. 2/0; 25-oz. = no. 7/0, and so on up to 36-02. per running yard of 22-in. cloth is No. 18/0. Any variation in width will weigh in direct proportion.
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10 Matts
Fabrics in which two or more adjacent warp ends or weft picks weave alike, such as 2 & 2, 3 & 3, or 4 & 4, ends and picks. Simple matts of this type can be woven on two shafts with two or more threads in one heald eye, but to prevent ends crossing it is best to have each thread in a separate eye. The cloth known as matt shirting is a popular one for many markets. It is bleached and soft finished. It is made all plain matt or in stripes. A typical make is 33-in. wide, 100 ends and 50 picks per inch, 36's warp, 10's weft, double ends, single picks. The weave illustrated is 12 X 12 and is termed a fancy matt. The cloth has 64 ends and 64 picks per inch, 2/17's T., 10's W. These cloths are allowed to shrink to their full extent, this particular cloth was 36-in. loom state and 33-in. finished. The take-up in length was 10 per cent.
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11 Gros De Hondres
A repp fabric for dress purposes reeded 2-ends and 1-end per dent alternately, usually the 2-ends are different in colour than the single ends. Thick and thin wefts are used. Woven with about 350-ends per inch of 16 denier silk organzine warp and cotton weft. In the example illustrated there are three single picks of 20's cotton forming the trough of the repp, while the bold rib is formed by floating the double ends of warp over two picks - weaving as one - of 6/20's cotton. The weft is hidden by the silk warp.
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12 Doosooti
See Dosuti. ————————DOSUTI, or DOOSOOTIAll cotton fabrics woven in the United Provinces of India with double ends and double picks come under this term. They are plain mattings with two ends of warp weaving as one and two picks of weft in the same shed. Also known as Dasuti. -
13 Dosuti
DOSUTI, or DOOSOOTIAll cotton fabrics woven in the United Provinces of India with double ends and double picks come under this term. They are plain mattings with two ends of warp weaving as one and two picks of weft in the same shed. Also known as Dasuti. -
14 Doublerie
This is a French term given to a dress canvas printed in effects suitable for summer wear. One cloth was made 72 ends and 80 picks per inch 32's T., 34's W., double ends and double picks. The print designs are small floral effects on a white ground. -
15 Panama Canvas
An all-cotton cloth woven from dyed yarns in a plain matt weave, double ends and double picks. Made 36-in., 80 yards, 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 20's warp, 16's weft, and many other qualities. Used for embroidery. Also a sacking cloth in the 3 & 3 basket weave. -
16 Comboys
Coloured shawls woven in Colne and Radcliffe. Made in checks and stripes with fancy headings at each end of the shawl. The border at each side is made by cramming the warp in the reed, generally four double ends in one dent. The body of the cloth is a matt weave. Many qualities are woven, ranging from 24's to 34's warp and weft, 44 to 52 picks per inch, and varying numbers of ends per inch. -
17 Crepe Meteore
A fine French all-silk fabric made from very fine silk yams in 2 & I twill weave. Only the weft is crepe and it is used two right, two reverse. Cloth width is 43-in. to finish 39/40-in. There are 220 (double ends) and from 80 up to 100 picks per inch. Owing to the large number of ends it is woven on six shafts, giving a warp face. It is piece-dyed and finished to give a lustrous face. -
18 Cristalline
A matting cloth for curtains - double ends and picks - made from all mercerised cotton or rayon staple fibre yarn. It is piece-dyed. Light weights are usual, about 80 ends and 80 picks per inch, 2/60's T., 2/80's W. -
19 Twisters
Selvedges made from double-ends, that is, two selvedge ends drawn in one eye. -
20 парочки
Textile: double ends, double threads (порок ткани), flats (порок ткани), spinner's doubles (порок пряжи)
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